Did a wind mitigation today and the roof was installed in 2012 by someone who was clueless. Anyway they used 6D nails Spaced no further than 6". Home was built in 1950 and used dimensional lumber with two nails per board.
I want to make sure I am doing this right most of my homes are all plywood or OSB.
Usually when I see 6D nails in plywood or OSB I would choose A.
However when you look at C. It states 8D nails but however it says OR- Dimensional lumber/Tongue & Groove decking with a minimum of 2 nails per board (or 1 nail per board if each board is equal to or less than 6 inches in width).
I like to know, I’m trying not to read two far into this. If you guys need more info let me know.
The roofer. The job was done in 2012. So as I was corrected he did use 8D nails. No Roof to Wall metal connections. Toe nailed, No SWR which I thought was installed in my area around 2010. Still learning everyday.
Huh…I have never used a sharpie and have not even used paper since the 2 page form.
DL with staples A is what it equals to the insurance agency but I guess E is the correct answer. 6 of 1 1/2 dozen of another to the results. in other words it is NO GOOD for any discount unless you can prove total uplift resistance.
Shawn, you do not need to do nail spacing measurements with dimensional or T&G. Just mark where the nails are. Even a 1 x 12 qualifies with only 2 nails, one on each edge, which would be more than 6"…not normal, but still qualifies on the 1802 as it is written.
I agree with Brad but I caution you. There may an underwriter who will apply craft bc of such. Shawn I rather be safe than sorry for our clients sake. There is nothing wrong with doing so…FYI
Thank you Brad and Joe, This was my first house with dimensional lumber. I have been getting houses with plywood or OSB. So I wanted to double check. And thank god I came onto this form. The nail in my inspection looked like a 8D but measured 1 1/2". But without adding that 1/4" it threw me off. All you guys have been really helpful. Thank you.